The Dolomites

Pale, jagged peaks, car-free pass days, huts with views you'll never forget, and some of the best spa hotels in Europe. The Dolomites are huge, spread across South Tyrol, Trentino and the Veneto, so the trick is knowing which corner suits the trip you want. This page pulls together everything we've done there, so you can mix and match: a big event, a couple of hikes and somewhere properly good to recover.

Getting there

Verona: the airport we've used. Good for the Brenta Dolomites and Lake Garda (about 2 hours), and fine for Val Gardena (about 2.5 hours).
Innsbruck: the quickest way into Brixen, Val Gardena and Alta Badia, over the Brenner Pass.
Bolzano: the closest airport to the central Dolomites, served by SkyAlps. Sports bags (bikes included) can be booked but are limited per flight.
Venice: best for Cortina, the Tre Cime and Lago di Braies.
Milan: best for the Stelvio and Bormio.

Whichever you choose, hire a car. Some of the best hotels and trailheads are a little out in the sticks, and the drive between valleys is half the fun.

Understanding the area

Val Gardena and Alta Badia. The classic Dolomites: the Sella massif, the four passes of the Sellaronda Bike Day, and the lift up to Seceda.

Brixen and the Plose. A handsome old town in the Eisack valley with mountains on the doorstep. Home to My Arbor, our favourite place to recover after a big day.

Bolzano and the hills above it. South Tyrol's capital, with quieter villages and hotels up on the plateaus. We stayed at Saltus in San Genesio straight after My Arbor.

Cortina and the east. The famous postcard views: the Tre Cime, Lago di Braies and Lago di Sorapis. Stunning, and very busy in high summer.

The Brenta Dolomites. The western edge of the Dolomites, around Madonna di Campiglio and Pinzolo. Big walks, fewer crowds, and Lefay Resort & Spa Dolomiti, where we based ourselves for the Stelvio.

The Stelvio and Bormio. Strictly the Ortler Alps rather than the Dolomites, but about two hours from the Brenta, and one of the great climbs in cycling. Read our Stelvio Bike Day guide.

Events

Sellaronda Bike Day: four passes closed to cars, twice a year, in June and September.
Stelvio Bike Day: the Stelvio Pass closed to cars for the day.

Where we've stayed

My Arbor, Brixen: adults-only tree hotel with a serious spa. Read the full review.
Saltus, San Genesio above Bolzano: where we went next on the same trip. Review coming soon.
Lefay Resort & Spa Dolomiti, Pinzolo: our base for the Stelvio and the Brenta hikes. Review coming soon.

Hikes we've done

Tre Cime di Lavaredo loop. About 8 km and 500 m of climbing from Rifugio Auronzo, circling the three towers. The most famous walk in the Dolomites, and worth it. Go early.

Seceda. Take the lift up from Val Gardena to the tilted ridge: grass on one side, a sheer drop on the other. You can do a short wander or link it into a longer hike.

Lago di Braies. The blue lake with the wooden rowing boats. An easy, flat loop around the shore. In peak summer, car access is restricted, so check before you drive.

Lago di Sorapis. About 13 km there and back from Passo Tre Croci near Cortina, ending at a milky turquoise lake under huge cliffs. A few exposed sections with cables.

Vallesinella. An easy 8 km walk from Madonna di Campiglio to the Vallesinella waterfalls.

Rifugio Brentei, Brenta Dolomites. About 13 km and 900 m of climbing from Vallesinella, up into the heart of the Brenta. A proper day out on the quieter western side.

A tip: the best-known hikes and views are in the east, and they get packed in July and August. There are good hikes everywhere, so if you want to dodge the summer hotspots, head west or go first thing.

Put it together

The beauty of the Dolomites is that you can combine things. A few ideas:

Sellaronda weekend: ride the Sellaronda Bike Day, recover at My Arbor, then hike Seceda or the Tre Cime.
West side: ride the Stelvio, stay at Lefay in Pinzolo, and hike to Rifugio Brentei.
Lakes and peaks: Lago di Braies, Lago di Sorapis and the Tre Cime, based around Cortina.

Bringing your own bike? Read our tips on flying with bikes (coming soon).

Want us to plan it around you? Start planning →